Amateur telescope making - Cont'dMirror testing - Cont'dMatching Ronchi testRonchi testing is similar to the foucault test in set-up. A light source is emitted through a diffraction grating, reflected by the mirror, then passes through the refraction grating again and observed by the person doing the test.
The result is a pattern of interference that reveals the shape of the mirror. The interference is compared to a computer generated diagram of what the mirror should look like. Inputs to the program are line frequency of the diffraction grating, focal length and diameter of the mirror.
The ronchi test is much faster to set up than the foucault test but more subjective. It offers a quick glimpse at the mirrors shape and condition, and can quickly identify a 'turned edge' (rolled down outer diameter of the mirror).
Star testStar testing tests the entire optical system of the telescope. It is a very subjective test that requires a high degree of skill to interpret, but is considered to be the best test available to amateurs.
A star is brought into field under high magnification and then observed inside and outside of focus. Diffraction rings appear around the star. The shape and brightness of the diffraction rings are analyzed to determine the quality of the mirror.
For primary mirror testing, all optical components are assumed to be perfect and the results are applied to the primary mirror only. In a cassigrainian telescope, for example, the secondary may be complete and the primary can be tested and adjusted to correct for errors in both the primary and the secondary.
Figuring the mirrorThe true "art" of mirror making is in shaping the final curve or "figure" of the mirror. The figuring process begins after the mirror is fine ground and polished. The polishing lap continues to be used in this process.
The first goal in figuring a mirror is to obtain a perfectly spherical section. If the mirror is spherical, the surface of the mirror will appear to be evenly lit when inspected with the Foucault tester. The rotating "W" stroke described above will tend to bring the surface to a spherical shape.
It is important to allow the mirror to thermally stabilize or "cool down" after each figuring session. The friction of the lap against the mirror will cause the glass to expand slightly and will affect the figure.
The parabolic curve is obtained by slightly deepening the curve in the center of the spherical mirror. This is done by changing the "W" stroke so that more time is spent with the lap against the center of the mirror. It can take less than a minute of work to turn the spherical surface to a paraboloid, however the process is not exact and may need to be repeated numerous times. The shape of the curve can also be manipulated by flipping the mirror/lap over, or by using a small sub-diameter lap.
The Foucault tester and testing mask are used to obtain data used to calculate how closely the mirror matches a parabolic curve. Visually, the mirror surface will appear to have a slight circularly-symmetric donut appearance when viewed with the Foucault tester.
Aluminizing or "Silvering" the mirrorAlthough the finished mirror will work in the telescope without a reflective coating, the image will be very dim. So, a very thin coating of a highly reflective material is added to the front surface of the mirror.
Historically this coating was silver. Silvering was put on the mirror chemically. This was then polished. Silvering was typically done by the mirror maker.
Since the 1950s most mirror makers have the coating applied by a firm specializing in the work. Modern coatings usually contain Aluminum and other compounds.
The mirror is aluminized by placing it in a vacuum chamber with electrically-heated nichrome coils that can sublime aluminum. In a vacuum, the hot aluminum atoms travel in straight lines. When they hit the surface of the mirror, they cool and stick. Some mirror makers evaporate a layer of quartz on the mirror, others expose it to pure oxygen or air in an oven so that it will form a tough, clear layer of aluminum oxide.
Telescope designThe most common telescope design for the amateur telescope maker is the Dobsonian Telescope. The dobsonian very simple and easy to make. A Dobsonian telescope can be optimized for both planetary and deep sky observing. It is not suitable for astrophotography because it does not have the ability to automatically track the sky.
First, the amateur decides what size to construct. The difficulty of construction grows roughly as the square of the diameter of the mirror. A 4 inch (100 mm) mirror is a moderately easy science fair project. An 8 inch (200 mm) mirror is a good compromise between ease and constructing an instrument that would be expensive to purchase. A 12 inch (300 mm) mirror is difficult, and a telescope over 24 inch (600 mm) usually must be ground and lapped with mechanical assistance. Amateurs have constructed telescopes as large as 1 metre across (39 inches), but this is foolhardy for anyone other than the best-funded, experienced clubs.
Telescope ConstructionTubeOnce the mirror is done, it is mounted in a mechanical tube. The idea is to maintain the optical alignment between the mirrors and eyepiece.
In a Newtonian telescope, the primary mirror is located at the bottom of the tube. The small secondary mirror is suspended in the middle of the tube at the top using a low-profile mount (called a spider). The eyepiece is aimed at the secondary mirror on the spider, from outside of the tube.
Alignment is achieved by adjustment. The secondary mirror's position and tilt must be adjusted. The primary mirror must be tilted to focus through the secondary on the eyepiece.
Circular disks called altitude bearings are attached to the side of the tube at its center of gravity so it can tilt on its mount. Usually a small finder telescope is attached to the tube to aid pointing.
MountIn a Dobsonian mount, the altitude bearings rest on pads of teflon. This provides very little friction so that the telescope can be moved very small angles without jerking. These pads sit on the rocker box, which itself rotates in the azimuth on pads of teflon.
A dobsonian mount can be adjusted by computerized motors to track the stars, but the star field rotates, making the field of view useless for photography. It's theoretically possible to correct this with a rotating erection prism, but most people opt for a standard equatorial mount.
For astrophotography, an amateur equatorial mount is usually a "T" shape made of pipe, with roller bearings around the stem and top of the "T." The telescope tube is attached to one side of the T, with a counterweight on the other side to balance the weight of the telescope. The fixed axis (the stem of the "T," the one closest to the ground) is aimed at the pole-star, parallel to the axis of the Earth. In this way, moving the telescope to counter the rotation of the Earth requires movement only on one axis, the bearing wrapped around the stem of the "T."
Another form of equatorial mount is a two-tined fork. There are three bearings. One is wrapped around the "handle" of the fork. The handle of the fork is parallel with the axis of the Earth. The other two bearings are on the tines, and support the telescope tube from two sides. This mount is very popular for small professional telescopes because it weighs less (no counterweight) and since it gives better support, the tube and optics distort less. It's less popular with amateurs because it has three bearings, of two sizes, and it can be difficult to align the two secondary bearings.
Some amateurs construct setting circles on their mounts, or use motors that can move by very precise amounts. These let the amateur "dial in" astronomical objects by coordinate. A few amateurs have even constructed precision setting circles, and performed astrometry, measuring angles to nearby stars!
Issue #96