How to brake Part 2
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However, it's not enough just to have a car with ABS; it is just as important that you know how to use it to its full potential. Many people have no understanding of ABS when they buy a car so-equipped. [In fact, some research has shown more crashes occur in ABS cars than those not equipped with ABS! - Ed] As its name implies, ABS will not allow any of the wheels to lock-up, even if the brake pedal is pushed too hard. This eliminates the "fear factor" taking over in an emergency and - provided it is used to its full potential - ABS is a fantastic system for crash evasion.
Confusion with the use of ABS can however be created when swapping from a manual system to a car equipped with ABS. As explained previously, in a manual system it may become necessary to take the pressure off the brake pedal in order to regain control if wheel lock-up occurs. In an ABS car it is imperative that pressure is kept hard on the pedal despite what you may be feeling through the pedal.
When deployed, the ABS will cause the brake pedal to pulsate or shudder and usually an audible grinding sound will accompany it. These sensations have frequently been enough for the uninitiated to release pedal pressure and have what could have been an avoidable crash. If you ever get to the point where the ABS cuts in, leave the pedal pressed firmly where it is - this is as good as it gets! As the system does not allow wheel lock-up, steering is still possible - so just select your escape route and steer around the obstacle if possible.
As with any driving technique, concentration is the key. Give yourself plenty of room between your car and the car in front - two seconds is usually enough. This spacing can be easily worked out if you count slowly when the car in front passes a roadside obstacle. No matter what your speed, you should be able to count two seconds before your car passes the same piece of roadside furniture. Look ahead as far as possible to give yourself the earliest warning of any impending emergency. And don't fall into the trap of following the tail lights of the car in front - its driver could be asleep!
So that's the emergency stop, but what about just good old smooth retardation on approach to a corner? I guess this becomes more important to the performance driver but the basics are just the same - no matter what level you drive at. Judgement and vision, together with a thorough knowledge of your vehicle's stopping potential, are key factors in successfully negotiating any corner.
When pushing the limits, however, sometimes it's just not enough to be able to stop and turn. In order that you don't risk the chance of a "compression lock-up", you need to be able to down-change smoothly while braking hard. Compression lock-up is caused by the engine spinning at a lower rpm to the drivetrain when selecting a gear. Anyone who has ever driven a manual gearbox car will have experienced some form of clutch slip or drag when down-changing. When the clutch is let out, the drivetrain has to speed up the engine revs to match, putting an additional braking force through the driving wheels. If you are hard on the brakes (at the threshold of lock-up) approaching a corner, a down-change may give enough additional braking force to lock the drive wheels. To overcome this problem, a driving technique called heel/toe can be used.
Heel/toe is directly derived from motor racing but it can - and should - be encouraged for general road driving. Heel/toe is basically matching the engines revs to the drivetrain revs by blipping the accelerator with the side of your foot while also braking and down-changing. A good heel/toe technique starts with the correct positioning of the ball of your foot toward the righthand side of the brake pedal. This allows you to pivot slightly while rolling your foot to the right to allow the accelerator to be blipped. Pedal positioning in all-important for this technique to work properly and some cars are better equipped than others. The blipping should take place just before you let the clutch out after changing gear. The amount that you blip the accelerator will depend very much on road speed and can really only be judged by experience. This technique is difficult to master, but if you get it right there should be no trace of compression lock-up and braking should remain smooth and progressive.
Give it a go - not only is it safer and smoother but componentry such as the clutch plate and the synchros will thank you with a longer life. Be warned though - it will take lots of practice, and on your early attempts give yourself plenty of space as you will probably try to eject yourself through the windscreen! -
There is also Part 1 if anyone is interested in reading.
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cant u juz con't here
How to brake Part 1 -
one person on the verge of crashing... tries hard to recall what u write in part 1 and 2.. finally remembers.. and kiss the arse of the front car..
btw heel and toe is veh hard to master.. is not like u want to use u can use.. it takes a lot of practice.. and if unproperly excuted will agrevate the situation.. not to mention the damage done to ur drivetrain...
and with cars mostly having auto trans.. who needs heel and toe anyways???
so no offence.. but what u posted here doesnt really apply to the avg user... and as for enthusiast.. they wld have already have read up on their own... -
hmm... i guess most important is keeping ur distance la
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Haha ... drive safely but it is never wrong to learn more techniques - Techniques are meant to keep you safe not to make you more reckless
Auto is smooth and relax - Manual is much better in a sense of more control.