Do you prefer DIY or buy pc off the shelf?
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your PC case prettier than mineOriginally posted by browniebaobao:my previous PC was DIY de..
lasted abt 3, 4 yrs ba.
now using the second DIY de..
this cost about $1400.
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Originally posted by SaintDL:if you DIY, and if you are a gamer who would want a top notch speed devil with the devil's charm and lotsa power, you might need to install 4 fans.
trust me. you put together all those fast and furious parts and your set heats up like a campfire.
Btw, I only play Counter Strike. 
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They actually wanted a P5, but because of AMD, dropped their plans, went on to develop Core Duo instead.Originally posted by troublemaker2005:Intel has dropped the 'Pentium' naming sometime back on their processors. One of the newer processor is named 'Core Duo'. There should be no such a thing as a 'P5'. PGA775 (not 'Boeing 775') is just the pin out and a lookout for processor versus mobo fitting. If the number fits a board and a core, it is usually compatible between the two. -
They won't use fans. Liquid cooling systems.Originally posted by SaintDL:if you DIY, and if you are a gamer who would want a top notch speed devil with the devil's charm and lotsa power, you might need to install 4 fans.
trust me. you put together all those fast and furious parts and your set heats up like a campfire. -
I guess what Intel has always been using to cudgel AMD with is that their processors (since Pentium4) have always been faster in clock speed, ghz by ghz. It all went well until heat management control. Every manufacturer will maintain or go for a smaller architecture and that adds more issues with heat build up and dissipation. I guess Intel also realised that their 'virtual' core design will still lose out to AMD's true physical core and that has long been proven with AMD's X2 processors.
Since the lauch of Intel's Core Duo series, they had dropped their Pentium naming of their processors and is trying to gain better performances with a much shorter/ moderate fined tuned thread length and generous L2 cache. Since Intel processor supported motherboards usually make the memory controller with their chipset (unlike AMD which has various chipset manufacturer on their processor supported motherboard, e.g VIA, nVidia etc), they now have more freedom to work on their processor core.
IMO, and truely in my very own opinion, Intel has duplicated AMD's concept and i feel that with DDR2 (and DDR3 and so on in future) a mature technology, AMD should also duplicate Intel's concept of removing the memory controller from within their processors so that they can now beat Intel in heat management and shrinking the architecture. But to do that AMD has to solve their mix and match of motherboard chipset makers first.
As for Gamers, there are some who like to mod and it can also range from intermediate to the extreme 'modding' gamers. Those who care not much for the case design but who want to have a hassle-free quick heat removal from their system (and if they too overclock intensively) will prefer watercooling. Before this, moderate overclockers or intermediate gamers may opt to forgo their stock cooling hardware and select their custom cooling solutions and fans. There were already HSF for CPUs, chipsets and GPUs. With the introduction of the heatpipe, it can combine with a rapid and silence fan to produce better results.
Depending on the size of your case and the number of actively running hardware in your case or the rate of heat generation, you may use the appropriate number of fans (intake and exhaust) and place them at the correct locations (front, rear,side and/ top) for better heat circulation and discharge. For better noise/ power consumption control, you can rig the fans to speed-controller units. -
DIY
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Just copy the specifications from Dell's website and bring down to simlim shop ask them to assemble.
Cheaper, why? Because it doesn't come with Microsoft Windows. -
anyone here heard of or had any experiences of shops which do DIY dishonest? of course you dun name them out.
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DIY for sure.
The main reason is that when buying DIY, i only get what i need, and what i want. -
I've seen water cooling systems at SLS. They cost around $300++ I think.Originally posted by ndmmxiaomayi:They won't use fans. Liquid cooling systems.
I once read about this hardcore gamer who installed a liquid nitrogen cooling system. -
Well we are not here to rebuke or force our own ideas down other's throats and it is not worng to wrtite about why you choose an Apple, a PC or DIY or else.
For those who may just want an affordable PC to work with i guess he/she should not have asked if he/ she should DIY. When you asked, it shows that you have taken the first step (i.e is curiosity about DIY PC) to DIY.
Personally i feel that the most important thing to do prior to DIY is to get to know the various PC hardware makers and brands. At least when asked you can associate a few names. Understanding some basics of how the computer works can be found through books, magazines and the Internet. You can also ask any techie-friends you may know of.
Undersatnd from the processor type, maker and specification you want/ need, then choose an appropriate and compatible motherboard...down to supported ram types, graphics card, hard disks, power supply unit (PSU). optical/ floppy drives and the case. Keyboard and mouse (the user interfaces), speakers and display (monitor) comes later.
It all takes some planning and information gathering prior to parts sourcing if you want a PC setup that meets your requirements and look good.
You can also try to check forums or online feedbacks of any hardware conflicts and thrusted manufacturer names.
Then comes the budget and the money and going down to get your hardware. I believe you can do a few separate trips if you do not have your own transport.
As for the real hardware assembly and OS installation...its all child's play...a kid can do it and its much easier than Lego. -
This one is an example of an extreme one. He's not the only one. Got a few others and if not handled properly, can burn yourself.Originally posted by fudgester:I've seen water cooling systems at SLS. They cost around $300++ I think.
I once read about this hardcore gamer who installed a liquid nitrogen cooling system. 
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If you ask them build for you, there is no chance of seeing what's going behind the curtains.Originally posted by ChenW33:anyone here heard of or had any experiences of shops which do DIY dishonest? of course you dun name them out. -
As for the real hardware assembly and OS installation...its all child's play...a kid can do it and its much easier than Lego.
While it's a child's play, there are a lot who do dangerous stuffs by not following instructions. I've got one PSU that have the wires burnt in my house now, just because that fellow uses brute force. Can work, minutes later, it burnt.
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i think we should always fix the thing up ourselves.. my friend witnessed the guy fixing up, then within 1 week got prob lol
he brought back to the shop now, they say will check but not sure if will replace any parts with 2nd hand anot, some of these ppl dun look honest to me -
Originally posted by ChenW33:anyone here heard of or had any experiences of shops which do DIY dishonest? of course you dun name them out. It's very competitive selling computer stuffs. The dishonest players will always get weeded out. Just pray that you're not one of the customer while they are still around.
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but pretty interesting to DIY, can be much cheaper..
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heh.. overclock ur 1.8ghz to 2.4ghz =x
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of course brute force should be avoided lah. although the hardwares are build with certain rigidity and tolerances to external forces, its still a dangerous piece of equipment if its not manufactured/ assembled or handled properly.Originally posted by ndmmxiaomayi:While it's a child's play, there are a lot who do dangerous stuffs by not following instructions. I've got one PSU that have the wires burnt in my house now, just because that fellow uses brute force. Can work, minutes later, it burnt.
as for PSU cabling, usually the manufacturer will ensure proper sheath and overmolding of the rubber over the copper strands for safety and rigidity of the cabling assemblies in their hardware. stuff burns when baring of the copper strands allow contact with another flamable material nearby. that is why most PC hardware components are build and assembled and made from UL materials and flame retardants. From rubber sheath in cables and plastic connectors to PCB components to the PCB material itself all have a certain level of impedance to catch fire. in short they can melt but should not catch flames.
try using flame retard tapings and go over the bare cables. if the cables are exposed extensively it will be wiser to replace the whole PSU unit. -
wah blue LED lights..Originally posted by browniebaobao:my previous PC was DIY de..
lasted abt 3, 4 yrs ba.
now using the second DIY de..
this cost about $1400.
ah lian sia u... -
make some kinda marking on all your hardwares,take photos of it if possible so that if you notice parts are changed,you have your cases to talk to them about it?Originally posted by ChenW33:i think we should always fix the thing up ourselves.. my friend witnessed the guy fixing up, then within 1 week got prob lol
he brought back to the shop now, they say will check but not sure if will replace any parts with 2nd hand anot, some of these ppl dun look honest to me -
It's a brand new PC with brand new PSU, basically, nothing would go wrong.Originally posted by troublemaker2005:of course brute force should be avoided lah. although the hardwares are build with certain rigidity and tolerances to external forces, its still a dangerous piece of equipment if its not manufactured/ assembled or handled properly.
as for PSU cabling, usually the manufacturer will ensure proper sheath and overmolding of the rubber over the copper strands for safety and rigidity of the cabling assemblies in their hardware. stuff burns when baring of the copper strands allow contact with another flamable material nearby. that is why most PC hardware components are build and assembled and made from UL materials and flame retardants. From rubber sheath in cables and plastic connectors to PCB components to the PCB material itself all have a certain level of impedance to catch fire. in short they can melt but should not catch flames.
try using flame retard tapings and go over the bare cables. if the cables are exposed extensively it will be wiser to replace the whole PSU unit.
Problem is, he forced 3.5 floppy disk drive in and the PSU is connected to it. He on the PC and in 5 minutes, it's gone case. Wires connecting the 3.5 floppy disk drive are burnt, and copper wires can be seen. Still has lots of electric currents running through the wires as well. -
Confirm the floppy drive spoil? Or only the cablings from the PSU bared copper and not working?
If so isolate the problem. If the PC is new and was damaged due to handling from the qualified personel under the manufacturer's charge then you can make claims for it for hardware replacement.
Otherwise you may still use the PSU with the computer. If the PSU has only one compatible power cable to power up the floppy drive then you can get this and fix it to the other free available 3-pin connectors with the PSU and power up the floppy drive. remove the burnt/ damaged cable by unplugging it from the floppy drive and do not use it for any other connection. cut away the bare ends and/ or tape it up proper to conver all gaps showing the bare copper strands. do a proper cable management or tie back by coiling up that affect length of cable.
Do the above with a pair of insulating gloves, unplug all power cables and disconnect all power connections from the wall supplier outlet prior to repairs/ modifications. -
DIY, especially if u want a gaming machine..
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nope.. dun think my friend marked anything on it haha
