With the international fashion entourage rolling into town for the first-ever Audi Fashion Festival in May, we check out the up-and-coming designers in the region. By Baey Shi Chen
Asian fashion has been on the rise, with über talents like Jun Takahashi from Undercover, Thakoon and Andrew Gn leading the way. Hot on their heels is the new vanguard, already developing a distinct identity and proving that their work is not only fashion forward but technically on par with international counterparts.
To promote the latest crop of Asian labels in the region, Blueprint will be teaming up with champions of local and regional fashion BlackMarket for an exclusive show at the Audi Fashion Festival. Quincy Teofisto, co-owner of BlackMarket, says, “We want to showcase the emerging talent as a cohesive force rather than [make it] a competition of greatness.” So, with a stellar assembly of creative energy storming the runway, expect nothing but the hippest threads at the show. Here’s a preview.
Elohim by Sabrina Goh, Malaysia
Having honed her designing chops at the LASALLE-SIA College of the Arts and coming in as a finalist at the Singapore Young Designer Contest in 2006 and 2007, Malaysian talent Sabrina Goh (www.sabrinagoh.com) is on her way to becoming a frontrunner in the industry with her tasteful and minimalist creations.
Goh says, “I hope to achieve fullness of creativity in each of my collections and wow people with unexpected fashion.” Inspired by the androgynous look and incorporating innovative interpretations of structure and form, Goh’s Autumn/Winter ’09 Collection for ELOHIM, Control Freak, references the obsessive compulsive in you through the use of features such as side-release buckles to transform silhouettes. Also look out for unusual and interesting uses of color, tailoring and different textures in the form of matte and shiny fabrics to bring out striking contrasts.
Gian Romano, Philippines
A Central Saint Martin’s alumnus with an apprenticeship at New York’s progressive design collective Three Asfour (formerly known as Asfour) under his belt, Gian Romano (www.gianromano.com) looks set to create waves in the fashion world. With an emphasis on form, cut and concept that verges on the architectural, he proves that fashion is more than just mere design with his experimental approach.
Describing his unique sexless style as “urban warrior-meets-Mad Max” and interested in contributing sustainable and attainable designs to the industry, Romano drew inspiration for his latest collection from the idea of a nomad fighting the cold of an urban winter. Expect an intriguing lineup of heavily layered and cocooned looks with dramatically accentuated silhouettes in the wintry greys, purples and neutrals. What’s more, Romano’s trademark of displaced seams, constructed through a unique quilting technique, also adds layered folds and ridges to his creations.
Nikicio by Nina Nikicio, Indonesia
Taking on the theme of war in her latest collection, Jakarta-born Nina Nikicio (www.nikicio.com) reflects the opposing but inextricably entwined feelings of love and hate in her pieces. Committed to creating inventive and enduring work that is trend-resistant, the LASALLE-trained designer teams classic cuts with high-end constructions in all her collections to create a style that she describes as “neat, personal and unpredictable.“
Her latest offering is no different, with her signature tailoring and loose comfortable fits clearly evident. Incorporating idiosyncratic details such as cat-prints on a fitted suit and sneaker-inspired 12-centimeter ankle boots, she is at her quirky best. Moreover, with hidden details such as pockets on double-collared shirts and witty pieces such as reversible blazers and six-armhole tees, this refreshing collection will definitely create a buzz at the festival.
Reckless Ericka, Singapore
Adventurous and unconventional, homegrown label Reckless Erika (www.recklessericka.com) promises to be the next big thing with its exuberant designs. A creative partnership formed by four individuals, the label’s creations have an Euro-centric aesthetic that focuses on balancing classic tailoring with more avant-garde details and silhouettes for added edge. This has found its way into Brit Kid goes to India, the label’s Autumn/Winter ’09 collection.
An irreverent mish-mash of layers and vibrant colors with a lineup of cut-out tops, layered cropped jackets and Union-Jack inspired pieces, the kooky collection embodies a zany sense of fun that echoes the melding of cultures. If that’s not enough, silk-screened leggings and kitschy accessories such as turban-like headgear are thrown into the mix to complete a look of batty chic.
Stella Rissa, Indonesia
One of the fastest-rising stars in the fashion scene, Stella Rissa (www.stellrissa.com) already has several achievements to her name. A graduate of the LASALLE College International School, she was awarded The Best Young Designer Special Award by Indonesia’s Cleo Magazine and has showcased her work to impressive reviews at the Indonesian Designer’s Kaleidoscope as well as Malaysia International Fashion Week 2008.
Always interested in the amalgamation of two seemingly contrasting elements and known for her glamorous and lively designs, Rissa will be presenting her cruise collection at the show. Evoking a light and casual mood, Rissa’s pieces are made of linen, twill cotton and lycra rayon that are teamed with leather application and unpredictable construction pleats. Mature and mellow in style, the collection will definitely make an impression on savvy fashionistas in the crowd. Rissa says, “I hope I can fill the passion of all people who hunger for fashion.”
The Blueprint show is on May 7, 11pm. $10.
Other shows not to be missed:
Christian Lacroix Couture Spring/Summer 2009 Opening Gala
Expect nothing less than a show-stopping spectacle from the master couturier. With an exhibition of his work as a costumier at the National Museum already creating a frisson of excitement among the high fashion glitterati, Lacroix’s couture collection, rarely shown outside Paris, is guaranteed to set the hearts of ardent couture devotees racing. To top it all off, leading British supermodel Jacquetta Wheeler will be walking the runway for Lacroix.
May 6, 7pm. $400 (gala dinner and show).
Gareth Pugh Autumn/Winter 2009
A daring collection with a heavy macabre Goth-rock influence, it made its debut at Paris Fashion Week, and local Gareth Pugh fans will be the first in the world to see it on the runway after that. What’s more, his menswear collection will also be unveiled as part of his Singapore show. The multi-talented Pugh will also be teaming up with Matthew Stone for an exclusive one-night-only DJ showcase at Zouk’s Velvet Underground for the after party.
May 7, 7pm. $20 (show only) and $60 (show and cocktails). Gareth Pugh’s DJ set with Matthew Stone starts at 11pm. Admission for non-members is $20
(with two drinks). Velvet Underground,
17 Jiak Kim St., 6738-2988.
Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring/Summer 2009
Fans of Marc Jacobs be warned: Irresistibly wholesome all-American style will be hitting the local runway, courtesy of Jacobs’ highly coveted diffusion line. One of the most influential and prolific designers in the international fashion industry, the master of grungy laid-back cool turns his hand to conjuring fashion magic again with a youthful and fun collection.
May 8, 9pm. $20.
Vivienne Westwood Anglomania Closing Show
Another show that we’ll definitely be catching is Vivienne Westwood’s Anglomania. Westwood’s latest ready-to-wear collection promises to deliver her iconic punk-rock aesthetic, with designs that are audacious, energetic and deliciously incongruous. Expect a spirited play on shape and volume, with artfully dishevelled looks comprising soft pastel knits and wools mixed with mad prints. Prim and proper pinstripes are also given a sexy edge with slashed tailoring. In case you find that a tad too sedate, Westwood throws in bold tights and seriously fierce boots to create that bonafide punk princess look. What could be a better way to end the festival?
May 10, 7pm. $20 (show only) and $60 (show and cocktails).
All shows are held at Tent@Orchard, Ngee Ann City, 391 Orchard Rd. Tickets are available to the public online at www.tdc.sg or via Tickets.com hotline at 6296-2929. MasterCard cardholders enjoy 10 percent off ticket prices for all shows.