You’ve been eying that piece of jewelry for a while now, and why not splurge on a little something for yourself? Well, there is one reason to hesitate, if only for a moment. Before you buy, make sure that you ask if the piece was sourced using clean methods. This means that workers, and the environment, were not exploited at any stage of creating the jewelry.
The jewelry industry is taking steps to standardize and certify its practices. This process is, in many ways, similar to the standardization of organics. With organics, there’s a seal that verifies a third party confirmed the produce was farmed using a trusted set of guidelines. With jewelry, third party monitoring will provide similar reassurance, and consumers will know that jewelry sold by the members of an organization called Responsible Jewellery Council [sic] was created using ethical, social and environmental practices agreed upon in the RJC Code of Practices. This certification is known as the RJC System.
First steps in certification have focused on diamonds and metals. Conflict diamonds -- those sold to fund wars in parts of Africa -- have drawn wide public concern for ten years. Dirty gold -- gold mined without regard for human rights or environmental issues -- is also under scrutiny. "Diamonds and gold are the first two sectors that we wanted to address because they are the cornerstone of many jewelry businesses,” says Catherine Sproule, director of North America Operations for RJC.
Fair trade gems (those harvested in a manner sensitive to people and place) are another noteworthy issue, but one that has been difficult to standardize because the gems come from so many different places. "The supply chain for gemstones is complex,” says Cecelia Gardner, Esq., president, CEO, and general counsel for Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC), an organization that helps jewelers understand and comply with jewelry regulations. "Gemstones may get repeatedly traded, from source to jeweler, and often are more difficult to trace.”
Yet purchasing eco-jewelry does not have to be complex, if you know what to look for. Some jewelry, like diamonds and metals, can be traced. Some companies dealing in gems copiously track their sources, even if they can’t certify them, so be sure to ask. If you want to dig deeper, check out www.responsiblejewellery.com and get a list of jewelers that comply with their standards. Another site, www.earthworksaction.org, deals with mining reform and has information about dirty gold. Other options are to look for jewelry that is recycled, or companies that offset their impact by funding social or environmental projects. By taking a moment to trace your jewelry from source to store, you’ll ensure its appeal both in how it looks, and in how it was created.
What to ask when you buy
It’s hard to know the history of recycled jewelry, but when buying new diamonds, gold, gems or folk jewelry, hold your retailer accountable. Here are good questions to ask.
- When buying new diamonds or gold, ask if your retailer can trace the piece from source to store. Your jeweler should have documentation that verifies every step of the supply chain, and offer you a written assurance of sources.
- When buying gems or other folk jewelry, find out if the piece was created using fair trade methods. Ask if the product is recognized by the Fair Trade Federation (FTF) or the International Federation of Alternative Trade (IFAT). Ask if the people involved in sourcing and production were paid a fair wage, and if they worked in safe conditions. Also, ask if the jewelry was created with the environment in mind.
