Fine dining restaurants get recession-savvy with super saver lunch sets. By Theresa Tarpey
Fast food joints are no longer the only places offering value meals these days. High-end restaurants, having caught on to the fact that we are mired in a recession, are now coming out with their own version of the recession meal—the set menu. As the crème de la crème of restaurants, these sets promise to be a lot more enticing than your typical quantity over quality “chicken or beef” plate. Only the best ingredients are used and the variety of innovative dishes is maintained. The posh ambiance doesn’t hurt either.
If there is one good thing that has come out of this dreary global recession, it’s these set menus. You get the chi chi vibe, great service and haute cuisine—without breaking the bank. Here is I-S’ top picks for saver sets from some of the best, and most talked about restaurants in town.
FiftyThree
53 Armenian St., 6334-5535.
The skinny: They may be a new kid on the block, but FiftyThree, joint venture of renowned chef Michael Han and the Les Amis group, is already setting trends and garnering die-hard fans with their holistic approach to dining. Maintaining an ambiance of intimacy and exclusivity is highly valued here—something they achieve by limiting their tables to only seven. With so few tables and menus á prix fixe, there’s plenty of room for private get-togethers and gastronomic creativity.
The feel: Historic shophouse meets Japanese utility is the order of the day here and is fitting with the unique private dining concept. By minimizing the head count, guests are guaranteed personalized culinary creations and outstanding service.
The value meal: For $45, exclusive dining comes (relatively) cheap. The set consists of what seems to be the standard three courses—starter, entrée and dessert—with guests selecting one of three dishes from each course.
The food: Ingredient pairings are unique and verging on the bizarre (not a bad thing in FiftyThree’s case). To start, the Wagyu and hibiscus carpaccio is light and inventive; each exotic ingredient complementing the other. Next up, check out the pan-seared flap steak, smoked marrow and potato puree-foam. Though rather small in size, it is a delightful combination of textures and flavors. Complete your molecular gastronomical journey with the fig and sweet olive tapenade served with green Szechuan peppercorn (Bizarre? Yes. Tasty? Oh yes!).
Gunther’s
#01-03, 36 Purvis St., 6338-8955.
The skinny: This collaboration between former Les Amis chef Gunther Hubrechsen and Italian restaurant owner Roberto Galetti shook up the dining scene in 2007. Since then, it has been pleasing epicureans and big wigs alike with its innovative nouveau French cuisine.
The feel: Modern artworks, avant garde lamps and cushy sofa bench seats accenting a predominately black interior create a surprisingly intimate vibe here, ideal for friendly rendezvous, meals à deux and client lunches.
The value meal: Just $38 will get you an appetizer, main, dessert and coffee or tea. Portions are sized just right—think human portions. After a somewhat lengthy two-hour meal, you won’t be stuffed to the gills, but you’ll find yourself oddly satisfied. Chef Gunther also changes the sets every two weeks (see their website www.gunthers.com.sg/menu.html for the latest menu), so repeat menus are not an issue.
The food: Begin your dining experience with one of their three appetizers on offer. Try the egg sunny-side-up nantua with sautéed crayfish and a rich béchamel sauce. Thank goodness for the freshly baked mini baguettes (also awesome just on their own), which are ideal for dipping. The tuna smothered in garlic and herbs, and accompanied by a Béarnaise sauce and pommes paille (glorified potato chips) is pure pleasure for the senses. If you’re feeling gutsy, ask for Gunther’s Creation. This guy is known for changing up the menu at a moment’s notice—so you can expect to be pleasantly surprised each time you visit. Polish off the meal with the dessert of the day. The signature apple tart with rum raisin ice cream is a bit OTT sweet; but inventive and totally tasty.
Le Saint Julien
#02-01 Fullerton Water Boat House, 3 Fullerton Rd., 6534-5947.
The skinny: In the six years since its opening in 2003, Le Saint Julien has become synonymous with fine French dining and haute cuisine. Forget about progressive and funky cooking styles—chef Julien Bompard takes a purist’s approach to French cuisine.
The feel: Classic, understated elegance describes not only the food but also the atmosphere—picture old-school fine dining with pristine white linens, velvety red chairs, warm service and a lovely bay view.
The value meal: The executive lunch set goes for $52. Diners are spoiled for choice here, choosing from a list of not one but five appetizers, five mains and four desserts (Note: Some of the dishes come with an additional cost). This menu is updated monthly and is just the kind of excuse you need to keep coming back.
The food: Whet your appetite with a seafood and potato starter garnished with caviar. Then continue your degustation experience with scallops and a parsley and shallot salad with honey sauce; and conclude your meal with the fresh and palate-cleansing homemade sorbet. If you’re in a more savory than sweet mood, splurge on the cheeses—exclusive French cheeses from Saint Julien’s own La Fromagerie.
Tippling Club
8D Dempsey Rd., 6475-2217.
The skinny: With its chic counter seats, simple décor and funky ink-blot menus, Tippling Club is definitely something extraordinary. Through the blood, sweat and tears of chef Ryan Clift and bartender Matthew Bax, the art of food paired with drinks is taken to a whole new level. This is cutting edge dining that you’ll definitely need to try at least once.
The feel: Like the food and décor, the ambiance here is refined and edgy. Foodies, couples and friends come here to wind down and experience Tippling Club’s fresh take on haute cuisine. Although the vibe here is decidedly hip, it’s refreshingly devoid of a stuffy fine dining feel. Think casual funkiness: So by all means chow down and have fun here.
The value meal: Keeping to their concept of food + drinks, the lunch set (available Thu-Sat) includes two-, three- or six-courses; plus one or two glasses of wine. Priced at $29, $49 and $99 respectively, these sets make posh nosh and tipples for lunch a realized concept. Another economical option is the tapas menu, which features 30 drink + food pairings for you to choose from. The food: The lunch set changes monthly and as dishes are rarely repeated, you’re guaranteed a unique experience each time you visit. Current first course option, the poached quail with green curry and peanut crumble, exemplifies the progressive tone behind the cuisine. If you’ve opted for the three-course set, the seared sea bass with broccoli polonaise will satisfy your palate. To round off the meal, relish the lightness of the port-infused pineapple with yogurt and star anise crumble. You’ll probably be back to sample more innovations by Clift and Bax.
