The Barbie-doll Aesthetic
The moment one expresses distaste for beauty contests, it is assumed that one wants every woman to look like an inmate of a Gandhi ashram, and to lead a self-repressed life. To be opposed to beauty contests is not to be opposed to women beautifying themselves. Throughout history, women have been known to express their love of beauty by embellishing themselves and everything around them, including objects of everyday use. Indian women in particular have been exceptionally creative in this regard. They decorate ordinary mud floors with beautiful designs, have a rich tradition of colourful clothing with intricate embroideries, create lavish mirror work and a host of rich designs. It is but natural that they would express their joy in beauty by beautifying their bodies as well. Shringar is an age old tradition in India where women put on special jewelry, special makeup and decorate every part of the body.
However, the concept of beauty that comes to us from the West along with these beauty contests has very little to do with beauty and more to do with marketing a self-view to women whereby they all try to look and behave like standardised products rather than normal human beings. This makes women self-hating by wanting to conform to a pre-set glamour doll image.
For years, western feminists have grappled with how men have come to define beauty in such a way as to manipulate women into considering themselves attractive only when men find them sexually provocative. Much of this is tied in with a sick obsession with youth in western culture, which effects all strata of the society. Women have access to an extremely tenuous bit of power as long as they are young and attractive to men. Western men, however, have a different standard for themselves. They believe they continue to be attractive even in middle age. In fact, if they are rich and powerful, their age only adds to their charm. Streaks of silver in a mans hair are supposed to enhance his sex appeal, but not so for a woman. There is pressure for her to carefully hide them with a dye, along with other tell-tale signs of aging. As she starts greying, her breasts start sagging, wrinkles appear, or her waist starts bulging, she is made to feel increasingly dispensable. The obsession with having big and firm breasts, narrow waists and shapely legs drives vast numbers of women in the West to go on starvation diets. One and a half million women in the West are known to have their breasts artificially inflated through surgery. American friends tell me that losing weight is such a national obsession that you cannot talk to a woman for any length of time without the conversation veering round to calories and diets. Many women become anorexic in their anxiety to stay trim and get sick because they cannot eat. Others who cant resist eating their fill, learn the art of vomiting soon after each meal so that they are able to eat with abandon without putting on any weight.
For years, magazines like Femina and Eves Weekly (now defunct) have been trying to propagate these and other western obsessions among Indian women but so far their influence has stayed confined to a very tiny section among the urban elite. Eating disorders and plastic surgery are relatively unheard of in our country. But if the euphoria over beauty contests keeps spreading at this pace, fuelled by interested sections of the mass media, women in India are in for a lot of trouble.
So far, the main unhealthy aspect of our notion of beauty in women is our tendency to consider dark skin a sign of ugliness. A heavy premium is put on women being fair skinned. (In this respect Indians are no less racist than some white skinned Westerners). My friend, Surabhi Sheth, a Sanskrit scholar, confirms that the bias in favour of fair skin abounds in Indian literature. A gaurvarna is associated with prakash (light) and saundarya (beauty). There are also caste dimensions to the preference. Brahmins are associated with white skin, the Kshatriyas with red (valour), Vaishyas with yellow skin and Shudras with black. While fair skin was traditionally prized for its association with saundarya, during colonial rule it acquired a new connotation - that of power. That perhaps explains the fascination Indians have had with the Nehru family. Since they were almost as fair as Europeans, they were treated like they were natural born rulers. I am convinced that Indira Gandhi would not have been so valourised and allowed to get away with so many evil deeds had she been dark skinned. A dark skinned girl is often treated as the ugly duckling of the family and finds it tough going in the marriage market. Skin whitening creams that promise a fair and lovely complexion are as sought after as anti-wrinkle creams in the West. The premium most Indians put on fair complexion in women is indeed weird considering that majority of us are rather brown skinned, if not dark. However, in most other respects, I find traditional ways of looking at beauty far more balanced and healthy.
For instance, in India, we are not tyrannised by the pressure to stay trim. If I put on some weight, most of my friends and family are likely to tell me that Im looking healthy. Likewise, whenever I have lost a few kilos, I am constantly besieged with queries like: Have you been ill? Why are you looking so pulled down? As long as a woman is not outright obese, a plump look is associated with being healthy. Most parents would actively discourage their daughters from going on diets to lose weight. In fact, if a woman does not put on weight after marriage, it would be seen as a sign of a stressful marriage. It is widely believed that if a woman is happy in marriage, her body should fill out (sharir bhar jana chahiye.) Even film heroines in India are almost never skinny unlike most Hollywood stars who have to have a lean and starved look in order to be considered right for glamorous roles. Our film stars would be considered plump and many even outright fat by western standards. But in India, heroines like Meena Kumari, Nargis, Asha Parekh, Hema Malini, and Mala Sinha among the older generation were never rejected simply because they grew fat with age. Even among the younger generation, Sridevi, Juhi Chawla and many others have fairly plump bodies. But that does not prevent them from being considered attractive. Most Indians like them for their "healthy" look