How to differentiate "zhng" wrx(TS) with WRX
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Hi Spec, you said that you spent 100K on your first wrx. Thats about the cost of a new wrx!!!!!Originally posted by spec:The roof of course is stock. Top mount. Don't need front mount as I am not even running 1.7 bar. Been there done that with FMIC. I spent over $100k doing up my 1st WRX last time.
So wat have you done on your first one?? Your first one is it a version 5? Anyway, just kapo only. I just wan to know how can you mod a car above the car value. Isn't it cheaper to buy a bigger cc car? Or maybe it is a very expensive hobby.
However, i prefer a NA to TC... Does your wrx give you turbo lag???? Or is it that all TC have turbo lag???
Got a friend who was driving a Charade and drop in a GTTi engine. But i think that the mechanic who does it done a lousy job. Every time, when i wack the car from the sec. to third gear, the car seems to lost power. My friend told me that is engine flooding with petrol??? Got such thing meh? -
Sorry spec, just wan to check with you what is the difference between top mount and front mount intercooler? Does it mean top mount intercooler doesn't allow higher pressure on the TC?
I believe all TC engine is low compression already..... To run at 1.7 bar, does it mean that i got to raise the engine top cover higher, thus making it even lower compression then the manufacturer's specifications?
Sorry, I quite ignorant about engine..... -
looks like spec is the rex expert here sey...
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During the old days back in 1997, the car costs me $179k. Hence $100k is not more than the value of the car. It is a Ver 3 Japan Spec 280 PS model. The list is very long. Basically, the engine was blueprinted overseas. In Sg no one can do it locally. The engine block was crack tested, even the gearbox bell housing. Pistons were all done up and strengthened. Molydenum coated and later HPC coated. The conrods were from Carillo and they are Titanium with additional bearings oil galleries. The gundgeon, conrod and head pins are ARP made, aircraft grade. The piston rings are chrome moly and gapless. All combustion chambers are ported and polished leaving no casting marks. Chambers are all cc flowed. The engine is a close decked one. The heads are also cc:ed. The valves are 3 angled grinded. The valve springs are all changed. Head gaskets are metal ones with CR at 8.0:1. The cams were retained as they are the highest lift available for a street driveable car. Flywheel is also chrome moly and light at 6kg plus. Anything lower, you can forget about going up slope.Originally posted by Disappointment:Hi Spec, you said that you spent 100K on your first wrx. Thats about the cost of a new wrx!!!!! So wat have you done on your first one?? Your first one is it a version 5? Anyway, just kapo only. I just wan to know how can you mod a car above the car value. Isn't it cheaper to buy a bigger cc car? Or maybe it is a very expensive hobby.
However, i prefer a NA to TC... Does your wrx give you turbo lag???? Or is it that all TC have turbo lag???
Got a friend who was driving a Charade and drop in a GTTi engine. But i think that the mechanic who does it done a lousy job. Every time, when i wack the car from the sec. to third gear, the car seems to lost power. My friend told me that is engine flooding with petrol??? Got such thing meh?
The clutch is a 3 puck one with copper linings, unsprung. Can take up to 3600lbs of pressure. Gearbox is retained at 4.1 final drive to ensure have top speed. Turbo is a 360 thrust bearing, double fin TD05 20G. The reason for not going to TD06 is the driveablility. You don't want a car which is only good at 40 tiang in LCK. You also want it fast on the roads, b roads, track etc. Body is seam welded to take the twisting force of the engine. All driveshafts were upgraded. ECU is an Autronic SM2 which initially, I was running Apexi Power FC. At 1 bar, the car produces 350HP and 500nm of torque. at 1.7 bar, it is like close to 490HP with 610nm of torque. You also need a FMIC which cooler air is needed to keep pinging down to a minimum. Was using Trust. 0-100 was tested at 4.2s which is modest when compared to a Spec C out of factory which can do 4.3s. Rims were 16" Compomotive Rally Spec which were later upgraded to Speedlines. All components are dynamically balanced right up to the nut securing the flywheel and clutch. Mind you, the car is only 1200kg full tank.
The turbo lag was minimum because of the choice of turbo. Was not aiming for all right HP claims but more on driveability. The GTTi conversion, is still running on a mechanical turbo. Lean it out in between gear changes, check injector duty cycles etc. It will help with an after market ECU. Not all turbo cars have lag unless they are running on a ridiculously large turbo. Even the Merc Diesel Turbo taxi will have them for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
I did not keep the car for long as the COE and OMV was too high. Now I think it is in NZ as the next owner crashed it big time. Right now, I don't even mod much as the money can be used for other better purposes. The money spent previously can be used to buy property. So my advice to would be modsters, stay clear of this hobby else you will never know where your money go to. Best if to buy a car which is already fast out of factory.
Hope this helps. -
It is not that it does not allow higher pressure. As you know, the more air compresses, the hotter it gets. Plus the top mount gets heat soaked especially in a WRX. The Evo is an inline 4 hence the pipings are shorter, air travels lesser distance so FMIC is ideal. For the boxer engine, the pipings are damn long for an FMIC, hence Subaru retained the TMIC. The bigger the intercooler, the more pressure needed to push the air thru, hence it needs to be built up.Originally posted by Disappointment:Sorry spec, just wan to check with you what is the difference between top mount and front mount intercooler? Does it mean top mount intercooler doesn't allow higher pressure on the TC?
I believe all TC engine is low compression already..... To run at 1.7 bar, does it mean that i got to raise the engine top cover higher, thus making it even lower compression then the manufacturer's specifications?
Sorry, I quite ignorant about engine.....
Trade off is, the air going into the throttle body and engine is much cooler with a bigger intercooler or a FMIC.
To run high boost, yes, the CR needs to be lower...it has to be considered carefully. Example, Civics EG6 withy CR more than 10:1 wants to be TC'ed, CR needs to be lowered to prevent detonation and overheating. -
Fwah.....*_*Originally posted by spec:During the old days back in 1997, the car costs me $179k. Hence $100k is not more than the value of the car. It is a Ver 3 Japan Spec 280 PS model. The list is very long. Basically, the engine was blueprinted overseas. In Sg no one can do it locally. The engine block was crack tested, even the gearbox bell housing. Pistons were all done up and strengthened. Molydenum coated and later HPC coated. The conrods were from Carillo and they are Titanium with additional bearings oil galleries. The gundgeon, conrod and head pins are ARP made, aircraft grade. The piston rings are chrome moly and gapless. All combustion chambers are ported and polished leaving no casting marks. Chambers are all cc flowed. The engine is a close decked one. The heads are also cc:ed. The valves are 3 angled grinded. The valve springs are all changed. Head gaskets are metal ones with CR at 8.0:1. The cams were retained as they are the highest lift available for a street driveable car. Flywheel is also chrome moly and light at 6kg plus. Anything lower, you can forget about going up slope.
The clutch is a 3 puck one with copper linings, unsprung. Can take up to 3600lbs of pressure. Gearbox is retained at 4.1 final drive to ensure have top speed. Turbo is a 360 thrust bearing, double fin TD05 20G. The reason for not going to TD06 is the driveablility. You don't want a car which is only good at 40 tiang in LCK. You also want it fast on the roads, b roads, track etc. Body is seam welded to take the twisting force of the engine. All driveshafts were upgraded. ECU is an Autronic SM2 which initially, I was running Apexi Power FC. At 1 bar, the car produces 350HP and 500nm of torque. at 1.7 bar, it is like close to 490HP with 610nm of torque. You also need a FMIC which cooler air is needed to keep pinging down to a minimum. Was using Trust. 0-100 was tested at 4.2s which is modest when compared to a Spec C out of factory which can do 4.3s. Rims were 16" Compomotive Rally Spec which were later upgraded to Speedlines. All components are dynamically balanced right up to the nut securing the flywheel and clutch. Mind you, the car is only 1200kg full tank.
The turbo lag was minimum because of the choice of turbo. Was not aiming for all right HP claims but more on driveability. The GTTi conversion, is still running on a mechanical turbo. Lean it out in between gear changes, check injector duty cycles etc. It will help with an after market ECU. Not all turbo cars have lag unless they are running on a ridiculously large turbo. Even the Merc Diesel Turbo taxi will have them for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
I did not keep the car for long as the COE and OMV was too high. Now I think it is in NZ as the next owner crashed it big time. Right now, I don't even mod much as the money can be used for other better purposes. The money spent previously can be used to buy property. So my advice to would be modsters, stay clear of this hobby else you will never know where your money go to. Best if to buy a car which is already fast out of factory.
Hope this helps.
blur liao... -
v knowledgable this dude... but a bit bit oni like oni can settle with fists kind...
i dunno man..
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Why? Seriously, if you can't be half as irritating as some people here with so much to talk and meek as a mouse when in person, then I will treat u to a coffee. If you have nothing constructive to add, it is better to keep quiet as some trouble are not yours to front and settled long ago. Enlighten me.Originally posted by nOrmalbOi:v knowledgable this dude... but a bit bit oni like oni can settle with fists kind...
i dunno man.. -
Hi spec, thanks for the info..... learned quite a bit. Thanks again
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Not bad siah....i still blur........Originally posted by Disappointment:Hi spec, thanks for the info..... learned quite a bit. Thanks again -
wow, *pats on back* 490 hps for rex was pretty respectable in those days. the highest i came across was "only" 450.Originally posted by spec:During the old days back in 1997, the car costs me $179k. Hence $100k is not more than the value of the car. It is a Ver 3 Japan Spec 280 PS model. The list is very long. Basically, the engine was blueprinted overseas. In Sg no one can do it locally. The engine block was crack tested, even the gearbox bell housing. Pistons were all done up and strengthened. Molydenum coated and later HPC coated. The conrods were from Carillo and they are Titanium with additional bearings oil galleries. The gundgeon, conrod and head pins are ARP made, aircraft grade. The piston rings are chrome moly and gapless. All combustion chambers are ported and polished leaving no casting marks. Chambers are all cc flowed. The engine is a close decked one. The heads are also cc:ed. The valves are 3 angled grinded. The valve springs are all changed. Head gaskets are metal ones with CR at 8.0:1. The cams were retained as they are the highest lift available for a street driveable car. Flywheel is also chrome moly and light at 6kg plus. Anything lower, you can forget about going up slope.
The clutch is a 3 puck one with copper linings, unsprung. Can take up to 3600lbs of pressure. Gearbox is retained at 4.1 final drive to ensure have top speed. Turbo is a 360 thrust bearing, double fin TD05 20G. The reason for not going to TD06 is the driveablility. You don't want a car which is only good at 40 tiang in LCK. You also want it fast on the roads, b roads, track etc. Body is seam welded to take the twisting force of the engine. All driveshafts were upgraded. ECU is an Autronic SM2 which initially, I was running Apexi Power FC. At 1 bar, the car produces 350HP and 500nm of torque. at 1.7 bar, it is like close to 490HP with 610nm of torque. You also need a FMIC which cooler air is needed to keep pinging down to a minimum. Was using Trust. 0-100 was tested at 4.2s which is modest when compared to a Spec C out of factory which can do 4.3s. Rims were 16" Compomotive Rally Spec which were later upgraded to Speedlines. All components are dynamically balanced right up to the nut securing the flywheel and clutch. Mind you, the car is only 1200kg full tank.
The turbo lag was minimum because of the choice of turbo. Was not aiming for all right HP claims but more on driveability. The GTTi conversion, is still running on a mechanical turbo. Lean it out in between gear changes, check injector duty cycles etc. It will help with an after market ECU. Not all turbo cars have lag unless they are running on a ridiculously large turbo. Even the Merc Diesel Turbo taxi will have them for breakfast, lunch and dinner.
I did not keep the car for long as the COE and OMV was too high. Now I think it is in NZ as the next owner crashed it big time. Right now, I don't even mod much as the money can be used for other better purposes. The money spent previously can be used to buy property. So my advice to would be modsters, stay clear of this hobby else you will never know where your money go to. Best if to buy a car which is already fast out of factory.
Hope this helps.
i couldn't agree more with ur last point. though not as hardcore as u, but i already spent more then wad most ppl would earn in a year on my civic which i sold in 2002 and never realized where all that money went thereafter. -
My pleasure.Originally posted by Disappointment:Hi spec, thanks for the info..... learned quite a bit. Thanks again
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I was very low key last time and the car was the ultimate sleeper.Originally posted by tailslide:wow, *pats on back* 490 hps for rex was pretty respectable in those days. the highest i came across was "only" 450.
i couldn't agree more with ur last point. though not as hardcore as u, but i already spent more then wad most ppl would earn in a year on my civic which i sold in 2002 and never realized where all that money went thereafter.
Like I said, save the $$$. Do something more useful with it.
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Hi Spec, since you're like a che shen..... Dun mind me asking you another question?
I am just thinking is the BOV' purpose is to safe guard the TC from back spin when throttle is closed, right?
Then how come like those Audi A4 with turbo, i dun heard the BOV, or is it routed to some where else? Cause rex or evo everytime can hear the BOV sound when they change gear.
Thanks in advance again
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The bov's purpose is correct. Most of the cars come with plumb back valves, meaning it goes back in instead of venting out to atmosphere. Wrx, evos, A4t all inclusive. Most cars run on MAF, Mass Air flow sensor to determine amount of fuel to apportioned to the amount of air going into the engine. If it vents out (the reading of air is taken before air is vented out) using BOV into atmo, most of the ECUs will think that the amount of car going into the engine is much much more....but actually less air is going (because vented out to atmo)......fuelling will be super rich and you will get bad fuel consumption, poor power etc etc.Originally posted by Disappointment:Hi Spec, since you're like a che shen..... Dun mind me asking you another question?
I am just thinking is the BOV' purpose is to safe guard the TC from back spin when throttle is closed, right?
Then how come like those Audi A4 with turbo, i dun heard the BOV, or is it routed to some where else? Cause rex or evo everytime can hear the BOV sound when they change gear.
Thanks in advance again
Rex and Evo have plumb back BOVs as standard fixtures. You are hearing sound because they changed to after-market BOVs. In some cases, some are running open pod air filters and you do hear a sound similar to BOVs when they change gears.
BTW, I am not Che Shen because I don't drive an M3. -
its not about the car, its the driverOriginally posted by spec:BTW, I am not Che Shen because I don't drive an M3. -
yah, like buying new clutch, brake pads and tires after each track day.Originally posted by spec:I was very low key last time and the car was the ultimate sleeper.
Like I said, save the $$$. Do something more useful with it. -
u Lo....no wonder always broke....Originally posted by tailslide:yah, like buying new clutch, brake pads and tires after each track day. also u need 2 repair yr bones cos they break everytime u go over a curb on the track... -
Hahahah yeah maybe.....Ultimate Driving MachineOriginally posted by casshern:its not about the car, its the driver -
Pads don't cost really much. Only problem are the rotors... clutch is also okay lah....Originally posted by tailslide:yah, like buying new clutch, brake pads and tires after each track day. 
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490 BHP & 610NM.... & weighing jus 1200kg.....
on paper u killed all the super cars man.....
so did u race with any exotics in those days?
how's ur results? -
Oh spec btw, MAF is the one at the exhaust manifold. My EF8 got one. My mechanic told me it is some kind of air sensor, for the calculation of CO. But i can't locate it in my current CL7. Any idea is it the same sensor that you're toking about?Originally posted by spec:The bov's purpose is correct. Most of the cars come with plumb back valves, meaning it goes back in instead of venting out to atmosphere. Wrx, evos, A4t all inclusive. Most cars run on MAF, Mass Air flow sensor to determine amount of fuel to apportioned to the amount of air going into the engine. If it vents out (the reading of air is taken before air is vented out) using BOV into atmo, most of the ECUs will think that the amount of car going into the engine is much much more....but actually less air is going (because vented out to atmo)......fuelling will be super rich and you will get bad fuel consumption, poor power etc etc.
Rex and Evo have plumb back BOVs as standard fixtures. You are hearing sound because they changed to after-market BOVs. In some cases, some are running open pod air filters and you do hear a sound similar to BOVs when they change gears.
BTW, I am not Che Shen because I don't drive an M3.
Thanks again
P/S: Che Shen, dun need to drive M3 to be one. At least, i can learn a thing or two from you. Cheers.
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All cars have MAF sensors unless their stock ECU has been replaced with an aftermarket one. Check near the throttle body.Originally posted by Disappointment:Oh spec btw, MAF is the one at the exhaust manifold. My EF8 got one. My mechanic told me it is some kind of air sensor, for the calculation of CO. But i can't locate it in my current CL7. Any idea is it the same sensor that you're toking about?
Thanks again
P/S: Che Shen, dun need to drive M3 to be one. At least, i can learn a thing or two from you. Cheers. -
wah, change one set of tires at least 1k plus lor. change clutch definitely more than dat. tires tahan at most 3~4 sessions, clutch maybe slightly more. i not so woo lui like u lorOriginally posted by spec:Pads don't cost really much. Only problem are the rotors... clutch is also okay lah.... -
ur MAF (i remember its called MAP or "Mass Airflow Pressure") sensor is tapped onto ur throttle body for the CL7 if my memory serves me. it measures the pressure (and consequently how much) of air passing through the intake manifold and into ur engine. the one connected to ur exos is the lamda or O2 sensor. it measures the exos coming out of ur engine and determines whether the engine is running rich (too much fuel) or lean (too little fuel). both inputs from these sensors go into the ecu and tells it how much fuel to add or minus under closed loop (part throttle) driving conditions. they are 2 diff sensors altogether.Originally posted by Disappointment:Oh spec btw, MAF is the one at the exhaust manifold. My EF8 got one. My mechanic told me it is some kind of air sensor, for the calculation of CO. But i can't locate it in my current CL7. Any idea is it the same sensor that you're toking about?
Thanks again
P/S: Che Shen, dun need to drive M3 to be one. At least, i can learn a thing or two from you. Cheers.